The cabinet door design was developed for our older 17B and will be used again for the new doors in the TA. The door/drawer fronts are made from 3/4″ cabinet grade Birch plywood.
To begin, they are cut to finished size minus the thickness of two layers of Birch edge banding.
Depending on where I need to make the curve on the door, I ran the door through the table saw set at 3/8″ and angled at 8 degrees.
I then drew some sanding guide marks on the surface. These are lines drawn parallel to the beveled side to help guide removal of the wood. The layers of the plywood are also used to guide the sanding process. A variable belt sander is used to remove the excess surface material until I got the curve I want. The narrow edge is 3/8″ and the middle is 3/4″.
Next step is adding the birch hot glue edging and trimming it flush. Bottom edge, then sides, then top edge. An old clothes iron works well (no water).
The paper backed red oak veneer is cut with an exacto style knife slightly larger than the door. If you are doing doors or drawers that are above one another, you can get the grain to flow across them (see photo at top of page). I then attached the veneer with contact cement, roll out well to eliminate air pockets, start in the middle and work to the outside.
Trimming the veneer is a bit tricky on the end grain, it needs to be sliced due to the hardness of the oak, but not with a veneer trimmer, it will make a mess. Use a sharp exacto type knife to slice the end grain using the whole length on the blade, use a rolling motion to slice it across the grain. After all the excess edge is removed, use a sand paper with foam backing block to sand the veneer flush, always sand away from the outside surface. Practice and technique is important.
All the modifications that use red oak are finished with 3 coats of a tinted Minwax Polycrylic Clear Satin finish with sanding between each coat. This finish matches the existing walls and trim very well. The tint formula is C1, L+, U+.
For hinges, I used a 1/2″ overlay hinge, nickel plated (00w2733) from Lee Valley. These hinges are sturdy and contain springs to help them close. Since the some doors are thiner on the hinge side due to the curve, some hinge screws had to be shortened. In some cases I used epoxy to help the short screws hold in the wood.
For the overhead doors, I removed the springs from the hinges as they were not needed. If the springs were left in, the strain on the screws becomes too much (they will work themselves out) with the addition of the spring load support. One spring loaded door support (49541 from CW) is used for each door, two are not needed.
Door handles were also from Lee Valley, 123mm Aluminium Bow Handles (01w9723)
All the drawers sides and front/back were made from 3/8″ Baltic Birch plywood, the bottoms were 1/8″ plywood. The sides were rabbeted and glued, the bottom was left loose in a rabbet. The top edge was covered with Birch hot glue edging (put on with an iron) and trimmed.
The drawer fronts were constructed in the same way as the doors, they are attached with screws after the drawers have been mounted and adjusted. The drawers are finished inside and out with the tinted Minwax Polycrylic Clear Satin.