The bathroom has had several updates, floor, shelf and the door.
Teak floor mat
I have a small bin of teak left over from my previous working life, so I constructed a thin mat for the bathroom floor. It is held together by stainless steel rods with small diameter stainless pipe between the slats. I added small rubber pieces on the bottom to so it won’t scratch the floor and water can run underneath it. The mat lifts out for cleaning.
The next addition is strictly cosmetic. I never liked seeing the drain pipe coming down from the sink, so I hid it behind a piece of white plexiglass that was bent to cover the pipe. It attaches to the wood blocks shown in the photo.
We had used some clear plastic baskets held up with suction cups, but they were small and sometimes fell. I added a small shelf between the door and the sink made of teak with a stainless steel rail. It works for tooth brushes, tooth paste, etc.
The small shelf worked, right size, but I was not happy with the teak and the caulking, they were not compatible and looked shabby after using it for a few months. I have updated the shelf and made an aluminum one, no welding involved, just bending and finishing the metal. Held in with a couple of small bolts on the sink side and one screw into the door frame in the corner.
Shower rod and curtain
A new shower curtain was needed, simple purchase, but that meant a new shower rod was needed. The existing one was a straight piece of white I beam style curtain rod and it had it come off several times. Standard home shower rods are too big for the trailer, so I got a length of 5/16 stainless steel rod instead.
I make two brackets from 1/8″ aluminum with Allen headed bolt to hold the rod as I wanted to be able to remove the rod if needed. One end of the rod is filed flat on opposite sides and inserted into a corresponding shaped hole in one bracket. This was done so the rod does not rotate as there is a 45 degree bend in the rod. The other bracket holds the rod and is secured with a allen head bolt. One inch SS split rings were used to hang the curtain.
Trying to find reasonably priced towel rails that might work in the bathroom is frustrating. I also did not want to drill a bunch of holes in the fibreglass or cover it with stick/suction cup things. What I did was get some 3/16″ stainless steel rod, cut them to length and bend the ends close to 90 degrees. I also added a slight curve to the rail so that anything that is hanging can stay further away from the door. I then drilled a hole on either side of the door for each rail and pushed the steel rod in. Rub a green scrub pad along the length of the steel for a brushed finish. There are four rails evenly spaced on the inside of the bathroom door. These were cheap to make and work very well.
Bathroom door, part 1
The stock bathroom door is usually positioned by the factory so that there is a space at the top and bottom of the door to allow ventilation into the bathroom. Given that there is a powered bathroom exhaust fan and a optional opening window in the bathroom, we had ETI install the door so there was no gap at the top.
I built a louvered oak vent for the bottom of the door to hide the gap. With the fan and window, there is sufficient ventilation. (See “New bathroom door” below)
The stock hinges on the door did not allow the door to open far enough. It blocked the hallway when open. I replaced the hinges with the same ones I used on all the doors and overhead cabinets. The latch still worked, no other change were needed.
The hinges are a 1/2″ overlay hinge, nickel plated (00w2733) from Lee Valley. The metal in the hinges are thicker and stiffer than the stock ones. Replacement should work for any of the Escape models with similar doors.
Here are a couple of pictures showing the difference on how far the door can open using the stock and updated hinges. The first photo shows about where the stock door opens to, giving you about 6+ inches of space between the door and edge of the counter. The second photo shows the door fully open with the newer hinges, about 20+ inches. It is wide enough so a person does not need to turn to get by.
New bathroom door, part 2.
The bathroom has always lacked a medicine cabinet/a place to put small stuff and although the door shown above works fine, but I felt I could incorporate a small cabinet into the door if I made the door front curved. The new door had to include the following; match the other doors in the trailer, built-in cabinet, towel rails, vent, light weight and have a small mirror.
Given that the other doors within the trailer had a curved fronts, this allowed me to use the depth of the door to contain the cabinet. The curve is the same as the fridge. I used the torsion box construction method to keep the door light and stiff.
Clamping 1/8 inch door skin to door front.
Torsion box construction using 1/4 inch baltic birch plywood with 1/8 inch door skin, larger opening is the for the cabinet.
Almost completed front with red oak veneer and preparing to adhere the back veneer.
Partially completed door with cabinet. The slot at the door bottom is for ventilation.
Completed door installed including modified latch. The towel rails are made from 3/16 stainless steel rod, See “Small jobs” section for more info. Same hinges were used as above, the door actually opens a bit further now.
Cabinet with mirrored door, the mirror is plexiglas.
The back of the stock latch was used, but I had to extend the black plastic column that activates the latch due to the thicker door. I glued on a short piece of aluminum tube and added a piece to the end with a hole in it so the emergency release would still work. The handle is made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, brushed with a green scrubby and clear finish applied.